We all have a top ten list of the most memorable meals of our lifetime. One of mine occurred a few years ago on our first Mediterranean Cruise that left from Barcelona and visited Majorca, Malta, Sicily, Napoli (Pompeii), Civitavecchia (Rome), and Livorno (Pisa), Italy. Each of these stops warrants its own blog, and each had their own culinary highlights. But, one meal still stands out in my mind, and I've wanted to make it at home ever since.
Our last stop before returning to Barcelona was Livorno, on the Northwest coast of Italy. The two main choices for shore excursions were either Pisa or Florence. Considering I had already been to Pisa twice, I wasn't really interested in making sure the tower was still leaning. I had also been in Florence on my first trip to Europe in my early twenties, but it was at the end of an exhausting whirlwind attempt to see all of Europe in a month (BTW--it's not possible). The weather was rainy and I was at the end of my rope, so I don't really remember much about it. My hubby had never been to Florence, so we opted to take the two-hour bus ride there. My second visit didn't disappoint.
It was early November and the weather was sunny and crisp. On the way into Florence, our tour guide made a few suggestions for lunch during our free time. One was the Trattoria Ponte Vecchio, adjacent to the most famous "old bridge" in Florence spanning the Arno River. In particular, she recommended trying the pear-filled pasta purses. After a wonderful walking tour of the highlights in Florence including Il Duomo di Firenze, The Baptistery, and the Piazza della Signoria (with its copy of Michelangelo's David statue), we wandered back down the Corridoio Vasariano along the River Arno to the Trattoria.
The restaurant was inviting with its wooden exterior, a warm contrast against all of the stone and stucco facades. The restaurant's array of homemade pastas were displayed in the front window and the menu was reasonably priced. Upon stepping inside, we were immediately greeted by the cameriere and invited to sit at an intimate table for two. The comfortable interior was nicely adorned in richly stained wood and local mementoes.
I took a quick glance at the menu and immediately found our guide's recommended dish: Fiocchi Ripieni al Pecorino e pere alla Cremma di Robiola e Tartufo (Fresh Pasta Purses Stuffed with Pear and Pecorino Cheese w/ Shaved Black Truffle). My hubby ordered lasagne (really?!).
Since we were in Tuscany, I was also eager to try one of the best wines from the local region, Brunello di Montalcino, produced about 75 miles south of Florence. Since my entree was a bit delicate, our server recommended that we first enjoy some bruschetta to best bring out the flavor of the wine, so we took his advice. The wine was a bit pricey (30 Euro for a 1/2 bottle), but well worth it--full-bodied, rich and delightful on the palate. We liked it so much we picked up a full bottle when we got home to enjoy that Christmas with our rib roast.
When our pasta dishes arrived, we were thrilled by the presentation. The delicate pasta purses were arranged like a bunch of grapes and beautifully garnished with colorful red currants. They were drizzled with just enough sauce and adorned with thinly shaved truffle. The aroma was enticing. I'm usually not a fruit-in-my-entree kind of gal, but this dish was phenomenal. I can still remember the salty sweetness of the soft pasta filling, the rich creaminess of the Robiola cheese sauce, and the earthiness of the truffle. It was a perfectly balanced dish.
Of course, no visit to Florence and the Ponte Vecchio (also known as the "bridge of gold") would be complete without taking a look at all of the glittering jewelry on display in the shop windows on the bridge. I managed to find a great deal on some coral earrings to match the coral necklace I picked up earlier on the trip in Taormina, Sicily.
I searched for years for a recipe to duplicate this wonderful pasta dish at home, and I finally found this one: Pear and Pecorino Pasta Purses. Luckily I have a pasta roller attachment for my KitchenAid stand mixer and plenty of experience making cheese sauces and fondue. I can't wait to give this recipe a whirl in my own kitchen and relive our trip to Florence!